MAIDENHAIR FERN DISHCLOTH

I wish I knew the source for this charming little leafy pattern, but all I can tell you is that a friend of mine wore a commercially made sweater with this stitch, which fascinated me. I tossed it on the xerox machine so that I could figure it out. I was at a loss for names, but my husband suggested that the little columns resembled the fronds of maidenhair fern. And so they do.

I used Knitpicks Dishie. My cloth is about 9 inches wide. If you prefer a thicker yarn such as Peaches & Creme, I would go up two needle sizes and make three columns of fronds rather than four. 

With #4 needles cast on 46 stitches (33 for P&C).  Knit four rows in garter stitch for the bottom border. Then keeping the side 3 stitches in garter stitch, follow the chart below until the cloth is square. Make a garter stitch border at the top too.

Parenthetical comment: I have been teaching myself to make knitting charts with Excel. I'm slow, but getting better. Today I figured out how to label things with text boxes.

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TRAIN WHEELS DISHCLOTH

This one is really called "Round Link Cables" in Barbara Walker's Third Treasury of Knitting Patterns, but mine came out more like the wheels on an old steam locomotive (OK-  if you hold it sideways). The cloth is large, thick, and deeply textured. A bit of a handful for dishes, in my opinion, but it would make a capital washcloth.

I used Knitpicks Dishie. If you prefer to use a thicker yarn such as Peaches & Creme, I would go up to knitting needles #6, and make the cloth with four cables rather than five. Otherwise it might turn into a bath towel!

With Dishie cotton and #4 needles, cast on 50 stitches (42 for P&C).

Row 1: (K1, P1) twice for side border, (P2, K2) across to the last 6 stitches, then P2, (K1, P1) twice.
Row 2:  (K1, P1) twice for side border, (K2, P2) across to the last 6 stitches, then K2, (K1, P1) twice.
Rows 3 and 5: Repeat Row 1.
Rows 4 and 6: Repeat Row 2. 
Row 7: (K1, P1) twice for side border, P2, *(K1, M1, K1, P1, M1, P1, K1, M1, K1, P2) repeat from * across to last 4 stitches, then (K1, P1) twice. Now you should have 65 stitches (54 for P&C).
Row 8 and all subsequent even numbered rows: (K1, P1) twice, *(K2, P9) repeat from * until there are 6 stitches remaining, then K2, (K1, P1) twice.
Rows 9 and 11: (K1, P1) twice, *(P2, K9) repeat from * until there are 6 st remaining, P2, (K1, P1) twice.


Row 13: (K1, P1) twice, P2, Make a 9-stitch cable cross as follows: slip 6 stitches to cable needle and hold in front, k3, then slip the center 3 sts from the cable needle back to left-hand needle; pass the cable needle with the reemaining 3 stitches to the back of work; k3 from left-hand needle, then k3 from the cable needle. *(P2, K9, P2, 9-st cable as before), repeat from * until there are 6 stitiches remaining, P2, (K1, P1) twice.
Row 15 and 17: Same as Rows 9 and 11.
Row 19: (K1, P1) twice, *(P2, K9, P2, 9-st cable), repeat from * until there are 6 stitiches remaining, P2, (K1, P1) twice.
Rows 21 and 23: Same as Rows 9 and 11.
Repeat Rows 13-24 for pattern until cloth is square, and you have just finished a cable row. Repeat Rows 8-12 one more time.

Decrease row: (K1, P1) twice for side border, P2, *(K1, K2tog, P1, P2tog, K1, k2tog, P2) repeat from * across to last 4 stitches, then (K1, P1) twice. Now you should have 50 stitches (42 for P&C).
Repeat Rows 1-6 for top border, then bind off in pattern.

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FLOATING BERRIES DISHCLOTH

This one is based on "Rasberries and Cream" from Barbara Walker's A Third Treasury of Knitting Patterns.  My berries are floating in juice, not cream! The fabric tends to pull together, making a nice thick sturdy cloth. I have modified the original pattern to make a neater side edge. To prevent the top and bottom edges from flaring out I have used smaller-sized knitting needles and fewer stitches, but the berry stitch pattern can be worked on any multiple of 4 plus 1 stitches.

I used Knitpicks "Dishie" cotton yarn, but if you use a thicker yarn such as Peaches & Creme, go up in needle size to #6 and #8.


Cast 42 stitches on knitting needles #4.
Rows 1-4 with A: Slip 1 with yarn in front, yarn back, knit across.
Row 2 with A: Slip 1 with yarn in front, yarn back, knit 5, M1, *K6, M1. Repeat from *. Now you should have 49 stitches. 
Row 3 with A: Slip 1, purl to last stitch, slip 1.
Change to #6 knitting needles. 
Row 4 with B: K1, *slip 3 wyib, (k1, yo, k1) in next st; repeat from *, end slip 3 wyib, k1.
Row 5 with B: Slip1 wyif, *slip 3 wyif, k3, repeat from *, end slip 4. 
Row 6 with A: K1, *slip1-k2tog-psso, slip 3 wyib; repeat from *, end slip 1-k2tog-psso, k1. 
Row 7 with A: Slip 1 wyif, *(p1, yo, p1) in next st, slip 3 wyif; repeat from *, end (p1, yo, p1) in next st, slip1. 
Row 8 with B: K 1, *slip 3 wyib, p3; repeat from *, end slip 3 wyib, k1.
Row 9 with B: Slip 1 wyif, *slip 3 wyif, p3 tog; repeat from *, end slip 4 wyif.
Row 10 with A: Knit across.
Row 11 with A: Same as Row 3.
Row 12 with B:  K1, slip 1 wyib, k1, *slip 3 wyib, (k1, yo, k1) in next st; repeat from *, end slip 3 wyib, k1, slip 1 wyib, k1.
Row 13 with B: Slip 2 wyif, k1, *slip 3 wyif, k3, repeat from *, end k1, slip 2 wyif.
Row 14 with A:  K3, *slip1-k2tog-psso, slip 3 wyib; repeat from *, end slip 1-k2tog-psso, k3.
Row 15 with A: Slip 1 wyif, p2, *(p1, yo, p1) in next st, slip 3 wyif; repeat from *, end (p1, yo, p1) in next st, p2, slip1. 
Row 16 with B: K 1, slip 1 wyib, k1, *slip 3 wyib, p3; repeat from *, end slip 3 wyib, k1, slip 1 wyib, k1.
Row 17 with B: Slip 2 wyif, k1, *slip 3 wyif, p3 tog; repeat from *, end k1, slip 2 wyif.
Row 18 with A: Knit across.
Row 19 with A: Same as Row 3.
Repeat Rows 4-19 for pattern until cloth is square, and you have just finished Row 10. Change to #4 needles. Decrease row: Slip 1 wyif,* k5, k2tog, repeat from * (42 stitches). Repeat Rows 1-4 for border, bind off.


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REVERSIBLY CABLED DISHCLOTH

Here is a very clever pattern for a dishcloth with cables of 1 by 1 rib and seed stitch. It is completely reversible! Thanks to Lily Chin for this amazing stitch pattern!

The chart below (click to enlarge) has shaded areas to make the seed stitch cables stand out. The unmarked squares are to knit on the right side, purl on the wrong side. The squares with the "O" are to purl on the right side, knit on the wrong side. Of course you have to be able to TELL which is the right or wrong side, not a straightforward task with a reversible pattern! I strongly suggest that you mark the side facing you on even numbered rows with a pin or paperclip. This is the RIGHT side.

 Cast on 52 stitches with #4 needles, and knit the first four rows of the chart (two repeats). Note that there are two edge stitches which are kept in rib. The smaller needles are to help keep the ends of the cloth from flaring out. Slip the cloth to #6 needles and complete the 36-row chart, repeating back to Row #1, until your work is square, and you have just finished a cable row. Return the cloth to the smaller needles and knit until the row just before the next cable, then bind off.

I used Knitpicks Dishie for this cloth (7 inches square), but if you prefer a thicker yarn such as Peaches & Creme, I would go up to knitting needles #6 and 8.

Note: If this chart looks different than the one you might have seen or printed before, it's because I updated it to make it prettier. It is the same chart!

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PORTCULLIS DISHCLOTH

This charming stitch pattern is based on the Portcullis Stitch from Barbara Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns. It makes a cloth which is dense, nubby, sturdy, keeps its shape, and lies flat- in short, it resembles crochet.

I worked hard to find a knitted bind-off method that would resemble the cast on edge. It's rather fiddly, and wasn't entirely successful. Of course, you can always bind off in the usual way. I really think this cloth would look best with a crocheted bindoff. Anyone out there want to invent a good one?

SIZE:  About 8 inches diameter

MATERIALS:  Two balls of Knitpicks Dishie cotton in colors A and B, and knitting needles #4. If you prefer to use a thicker cotton yarn such as Peaches & Creme, I would go up to #6 needles and down to 41 stitches.
  
Cast on 53 stitches (or any multiple of 4 plus 1).

Row 1 with A: Purl
Row 2 with A: K2 tog, *(k1, yo, k1) in the same stitch, (slip1, k2tog, psso), repeat from *, end (k1, yo, k1) in the same stitch, ssk. 
Row 3 with B: Repeat Row 1.
Row 4 with B: Repeat Row 2.


Repeat these four rows until cloth is square and you have just finished Row 2 with A.

Bindoff prep row (with A): P2tog, *Purl in the front, back, and front of next stitch, (P2 tog but return this stitch to the LH needle, slip the second stitch over the one you just returned, then slip the stitch back to the RH needle), repeat from *, end P2tog.

Bind off with A as follows: Knit 2, BO 1, k1, BO 1, *K2tog, BO1, (k1, BO1) twice, repeat from *end k1, BO 1, k2tog, BO 1.

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BUBBLE BOBBLE DISHCLOTH

This delightful stitch pattern from Barbara Walker’s Second Treasury of KnittingPatterns makes a charming and unconventional dishcloth. I have modified the pattern to close the large holes that result from making the bobbles. If you use a multicolored yarn the bobbles seem to enlarge and stretch out the colors like a magnifying glass!

I wrote this pattern for Knitpicks cotton yarn “Dishie”. If you prefer to use one of the thicker yarns such as Peaches & Crème I would go up to a #6 needle, and reduce the stitches to 33.

If you find it cumbersome to turn your work multiple times to make the bobbles, this dishcloth is the perfect vehicle to teach yourself the technique called “knitting back backwards”. You can find a good tutorial at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24jrEt7xX2s

SIZE:  About 8 inches diameter

MATERIALS:  One ball of Knitpicks Dishie cotton, and knitting needles #4

Cast on 43 stitches.

Rows 1-4: With yarn in front, slip one stitch to the right hand needle as if to purl (S1wyif), yarn back, knit across.

Rows 5 and 7: Slip one as before, k2, purl to last three stitches, k3.

Row 6: Same as rows 1-4.

Row 8: S1, k8, *(turn, p5, turn, k5) 3 times, pick up two stitches along the left side of the bobble and place them on the left hand needle, then k3tog, k9, repeat from * end k3.

Row 9: S1, k2, p6, *pick up two stitches along the side of the bobble and place them on the left hand needle, then p3tog, p 9, repeat from *, end k3.

Row 10: Repeat Row 1.

Row 11: Repeat Row 5.

Row 12: S1, k13, *(turn, p5, turn, k5 turn) 3 times, pick up two stitches along the left side of the bobble and place them on the left hand needle, then k3tog, k9, turn, repeat from * end k8.

Row 13: S1, k2, p11, *pick up two stitches along the side of the bobble and place them on the left hand needle, then p3tog, p 9, repeat from *, end p5, k3.

Row 14: Repeat Row 1.

Row 15: Repeat Row 5.

Repeat Rows 8-15 for pattern. End with Row 11, then repeat Rows 1-4 for border. Bind off.

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BIND STITCH DISHCLOTH

This charming stitch pattern is from Barbara Walker's A Second Treasury of Knitting Patterns, p. 48.  I have reproduced it for you below. For the dishcloth above I cast on 34 stitches and used #4 knitting needles, but I could have gone up to a #6. The cloth is about 7 inches wide.

Two-Color Bind Stitch

Work this pattern with a light hand, being careful not to bind the stitches too tightly. "Squeezing" will spoil its appearance. The wrapped strands should be soft and reasonably loose, though not slack. The pattern is pretty, too, in three colors. Simply alternate the three colors continuously, giving 4 rows to each in turn.

Multiple of 4 sts plus 2. Colors A and B.

Cast on with Color A and purl one row.

Row 1 (Right side)- With B, k1, * sl 2 wyif, put yarn to back and sl the same 2 sts back to left-hand needle, bring yarn to front and sl the same 2 sts wyif again, put yarn to back and k2; rep from *, end k1.
Row 2- With B, p3, * sl 2 wyif, p2; rep from *, end sl 2, p1.
Row 3- With B k3, * p2, k2; rep from *, end p2, k1.
Row 4- With B, purl.
Row 5- With A, k3, rep from * of Row 1; end last repeat k1 instead of k2.
Row 6- With A, p1, * sl 2 wyif, p2; rep from *, end p1.
Row 7- With A k1, * p2, k2; rep from *, end k1.
Row 8- With A, purl.
Repeat Rows 1-8.

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DISHIE YARN REVIEW

Dishcloth mania has struck again! I wanted to try out the latest cotton yarn from Knitpicks, Dishie.

For those of you used to Peaches & Creme or Sugar'n Cream, you will find it firmer, more tightly twisted, and thinner. That means that you can't combine Dishie with the other brands in your colorwork, because the gauge is not the same, but Dishie comes in pretty nice colors and is not expensive. It washes up well, remains soft, and is colorfast. The only bad thing I could say about it is that there was one knot in my 100g ball, but that's not too unusual with the others.

If you would like to download the free pattern for the Sunburst dishcloth pictured above, it is available HERE.

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LIZARD RIDGE HAND TOWEL

This wonderful little stitch pattern makes really cool eyeballs which bulge out at you! I have made several of the dishcloths (pattern available HERE), but always thought they were a bit too wide for that purpose. So I just made the dishcloth a bit longer, added a topper to hang it from the fridge door, and voila: a lizard ridge hand towel!

Directions for the topper:

Row 1 (right side): With the yarn in front, slip the first three stitches without knitting them, yarn back, knit 2, ssk, knit 8, ssk, knit 9, k2tog, knit 8, k2tog, knit 5.
Row 2 (and all subsequent wrong side rows):  Slip the first three stitches as before, knit across.
Row 3: Slip 3 as before, yarn back, knit 2, ssk, knit 7, ssk, knit 8, k2tog, knit 7, k2tog, knit 5.
Row 5: Slip 3, knit 2, ssk, knit 6, ssk, knit 7, k2tog, knit 6, k2tog, knit 5.
Row 7: Slip 3, knit 2, ssk, knit 5, ssk, knit 6, k2tog, knit 5, k2tog, knit 5.
Row 9: Slip 3, knit 2, ssk, knit 4, ssk, knit 5, k2tog, knit 4, k2tog, knit 5.
Row 11: Slip 3, knit 2, ssk, knit 3, ssk, knit 4, k2tog, knit 3, k2tog, knit 5.
Row 13: Slip 3, knit 2, ssk, knit 2, ssk, knit 3, k2tog, knit 2, k2tog, knit 5.
Row 15: Slip 3, knit 2, ssk, knit 1, ssk, knit 2, k2tog, knit 1, k2tog, knit 5.
Row 17: Slip 3, knit 2, ssk twice, knit 1, k2tog twice, knit 5.
Row 19: Slip 3, ssk twice, knit 1, k2 tog twice, knit 3.
Row 21: Slip 3, knit across (11 stitches).
Repeat this row until strap is desired length.
Make buttonhole: On the right side, slip 3, knit 1, bind off 3, knit 4. On the next row cast on 3 stitches (use the knitted cast on or backward loop method) to replace the ones that were bound off. Repeat Row 21 four more times.
Decrease row 1, right side: Slip 3, ssk, knit 1, k2tog, knit 3.
Row 2: Repeat row 21 (9 stitches).
Row 3: Slip 3, knit 3 tog, knit 3 (7 stitches).
Cut yarn, leaving at least a 6 inch tail. Thread darning needle with tail, pull all the remaining stitches together, and anchor yarn. Sew on button.

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EMERGENCY DISHCLOTH

My family and I traveled to the mountains for a vacation recently. I had my knitting bag all ready to go, with the two summer tops and the patterns, extra yarn included. I left it on my recliner and went north without it. I have forgotten items many times on many trips, but NEVER NEVER NEVER have I forgotten my knitting bag!! So what to do? Go to WalMart and pick up some cheap cotton yarn and knitting needles!

I have always enjoyed experimenting with Brioche stitch, so the dishcloth pictured above is a variation on a stitch that I call Brioche twist twist. (Yes, it is the same cloth but showing both sides).  I tried this three-row pattern by switching the colors every two rows. If you are not familiar with Brioche stitch, don't try this in two colors to start!

 Cast on any even number of stitches with Color A. I used #6 needles and 26 stitches.
 Prep row (do this only once): With A, *YO (yarn over), S1wyib (slip one stitch with yarn in back), K1 (knit 1)*. In other words, bring the yarn toward you, in front of your work. Insert your needle into the next stitch as if to purl and slip it to the right needle (S). Then as you knit the next stitch (K1), wrap the yarn over the right needle and to the back (this completes the YO or yarn over). For the next stitch bring the yarn forward again between the needles, slip as if to purl, and knit the next stitch while wrapping the yarn to the back. Repeat to the end.
Row 1 with B: *YO S K2tog* Do the same as in  the prep row, but knit two stitches together (K2tog): both the next stitch and the wrap (YO) from the previous row are knitted together.
Row 2 with B: Repeat row 1.
Row 3 (twist row) with A: *Purl 1, skip the next stitch, knit the YO from the previous row but don’t slide it off the left needle, then knit the stitch you skipped and slide them both off together*
Row 4 with A: Repeat row 1.
Row 5 with B: Repeat row 1.
Row 6 with B: Repeat row 3.
Row 7 with A: Repeat row 1.
Row 8 with A: Repeat row 1.
Row 9 with B: Repeat row 3.
Row 10 with B: Repeat row 1.
Row 11 with A: Repeat row 1.
Row 12 with A: Repeat row 3.
Repeat these twelve rows for pattern until cloth is square.
Bind off loosely in *K1, k2tog*

JOB UPDATE: I had more or less decided that for the sake of my youngest child, who has two more years of high school, I would get any local job I could. Then I got an interview for a professional geologist position in a city two hours away! The interview went well, but I did not get the job. So now I'm back where I started.

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